Suzuki SV1000 valve adjustment

So I loved V twin  bike a lot so bought one again, right away, when I found it. It is Suzuki SV1000N -N means naked, classic bike (original N is quite rare these days).

It came from UK so it has a bit rust, although it is made all from aluminum, but it was still in got condition when I meet it 🙂

As I did not receive history of it, so during winter I did some service.

  • oil and filter change
  • clutch push rod and seal change
  • front sprocket seal change
  • clutch and brake levers rebuilt kits
  • and valve tappet clearance inspection (what I am going to describe here :))

So valve clearance inspection should be done every 24000 km (according service manual).

What is valve clearance? In general simple words it is small space between your valve tappet and camshaft lifter. This tiny space is required to fully close and open valve when engine works, to intake fuel and create compression explode and burn it.

If this valve clearance is to small valve will not close fully and it will start burn valve or valve sleeve, then engine will work badly not smooth and finally it will die 🙂 You will loose power, will see some misfiring and etc. and the repair cost will be high.

If valve clearance will be to large you will get some ticking noise, valve knock or similar noise, then you will hear it and need some adjustment, but it will not break kill your engine. 🙂

So there is my work to check valve clearance.

First of all tappet clearance is measured when engine is cold and the service limit (when you do not need to change anything) is:

  • Intake IN.: 0.10-0.20 mm (0.004-0.008 in)
  • Exhaust EX.: 0.20-0.30 mm (0.008-0.012 in)

And if this service limit exceeded you will going to change shims between tappet and valve. Temember it and now see what needs to be done 🙂

So I removed front cooling radiator and made some space to take of valve cover

When cover removed you will see two camshafts one intake and one exhaust, it marked as IN and EX (do not mix these)

Now you need to place these camshafts to the right position, to measure clearance, see the manual for that.

Also do be in a hurry to remove camshafts, before removing it (you will need to do that) clearly check markings. After changing shims, if needed, you will need to put it back at the exact same place.

Measure all clearance and write it down at first. For measurement you will need special tool and measure it in specific position (as described in service manual) and under each valve lifter.

For rear cylinder you will need a bit more work to make some space. I removed gas tank and seat. After that procedure is the same, remove valve cover and make camshafts to the right position at first, then measure all valve clearance. Do not forget to mark positions of camshafts!

So what you are going to change is in next picture, these small tablets are shims. Each one has its measurement written on top.

So after you write down all measurements you will see if spaces are small or to large. For SV1000 if limits are in range below

Tappet clearance (when cold)

  • Intake IN.: 0.10-0.20 mm (0.004-0.008 in)
  • Exhaust EX.: 0.20-0.30 mm (0.008-0.012 in)

then no need to change anything if it exceeds limits you need to change shim to the right one. Do the adjustment one cylinder at a time, one by one. When you will remove camshaft you will see valve tappet which need to remove also (use some magnet for that). When tappet is removed, between valve and tappet you will see shim. Be careful do not drop shim inside engine!

Shim sizes are provided in service manual too. One table is for EX-haust and one for IN-take. Chose the right one to make clearance to meet service limits. Place new shim with number in top.



Parašykite komentarą

El. pašto adresas nebus skelbiamas. Būtini laukeliai pažymėti *